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	<title>Madroño Ranch &#187; Marin County</title>
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		<title>Conflict on the half-shell in mellow Marin</title>
		<link>http://madronoranch.com/?p=3188</link>
		<comments>http://madronoranch.com/?p=3188#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Sep 2013 11:58:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Place]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cowgirl Creamery]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentalism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marin County]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mark Dowie]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[national parks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nature]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oysters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Point Reyes National Seashore]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[“… most ranchers and farmers in the West care as much for the health of their land, air, and water as any member of the Sierra Club.” (Mark Dowie) This was the second September in a row in which we &#8230; <a href="http://madronoranch.com/?p=3188">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dboc.jpg"><img src="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dboc-300x225.jpg" alt="Save Our Drakes Boy Oyster Farm sign" width="500" height="375" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-3193" /></a></p>
<p><em>“… most ranchers and farmers in the West care as much for the health of their land, air, and water as any member of the Sierra Club.” (Mark Dowie)</em></p>
<p>This was the second September in a row in which we decamped for two weeks to <a href="http://www.pointreyes.org/pointreyes-marin-county.html" target="_blank">Point Reyes Station</a>, California. The town, with a population of about 350, is in western Marin County, an hour north of San Francisco; it lies at the foot of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomales_Bay" target="_blank">Tomales Bay</a>, which separates the Point Reyes peninsula from the mainland, and is a gateway to the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/pore/index.htm" target="_blank">Point Reyes National Seashore</a>, some 70,000 acres of pristine beaches, rocky cliffs, historic dairy farms, redwood and eucalyptus trees, and <a href="http://kwmr.org/idbfiles/0000/0408/pic_tuleelk_285x190.jpg" target="_blank">tule elk</a>. It is one of the most beautiful parts of a beautiful state, popular with hikers, kayakers, campers, horseback riders, and mountain bikers.</p>
<p>Point Reyes Station is also a foodie mecca, even by the rarefied standards of northern California. The nationally renowned <a href="http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/" target="_blank">Cowgirl Creamery</a> is based here; the Saturday morning farmers’ market at <a href="http://www.tobysfeedbarn.com/" target="_blank">Toby’s Feed Barn</a> bears witness to the stunning variety and fertility of the surrounding farms and ranches; and the town features several fine restaurants, including <a href="http://osteriastellina.com/" target="_blank">Osteria Stellina</a>, and a variety of enticing nearby dining options, including <a href="http://www.saltwateroysterdepot.com/" target="_blank">Saltwater</a>, in nearby Inverness, and the renowned <a href="http://hogislandoysters.com/" target="_blank">Hog Island Oysters</a>, a few miles up Highway 1 on the eastern shore of the bay.</p>
<p>Natural beauty and agricultural plenty, plus a temperate climate: Point Reyes has it all. Even though Tomales Bay actually rests atop the dreaded <a href="http://www.sanandreasfault.org/" target="_blank">San Andreas Fault</a>, which means that there’s an excellent chance that it’s ground zero for the Next Big One, this may well be as close as we can get to an earthly paradise. All of which is by way of trying to put the controversy surrounding the Drakes Bay Oyster Company, which harvests more than a third of the state’s oysters, in some kind of context.</p>
<p>People have been harvesting oysters commercially in the waters of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drakes_Estero" target="_blank">Drakes Estero</a>, an estuary on the southern edge of the Point Reyes peninsula, for more than a century; President Kennedy signed the bill creating the Point Reyes National Seashore in 1962, and ten years later the government paid the Johnson Oyster Company nearly $80,000 for the property for inclusion in the park, offering the company a forty-year nonrenewable permit to continue operating.</p>
<p>In 1976, Congress passed a law designating the 2,500 acres of tidelands and submerged land of Drakes Estero as a marine wilderness effective upon the termination of that permit. In 2004, the Johnsons sold out to the Lunny family, longtime local cattle ranchers, who continued operating as the Drakes Bay Oyster Company; apparently the Lunnys assumed that the government would let them continue harvesting oysters in the estuary past 2012, even though the government told them that “no new permit will be issued.” </p>
<p>In November 2012, Interior Secretary Ken Salazar formally announced that he was allowing the permit to expire, though various court orders allowed the company to keep operating. Last week, however, a three-judge panel of the Ninth U.S. District Court of Appeals <a href="http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Appeals-court-deals-blow-to-Drakes-Bay-Oyster-Co-4783375.php" target="_blank">ruled 2-1 that the federal government was within its authority in terminating the permit</a>. The next step is uncertain, though the company will probably seek a hearing before the full court. </p>
<p>The case has become something of a <em>cause célèbre</em> in normally mellow Marin. While the Interior Department tries to do what’s right from a national perspective, fulfilling a Congressional directive and following the letter of the law, Point Reyes Station and the surrounding rural areas are thick with hand-painted blue-and-white signs begging “Save Our Drakes Bay Oyster Farm”—hardly surprising, I suppose, given the fact that the Lunny family has been here for a century, and the general antipathy toward Big Government among small farmers and ranchers. Supporters of the company have even started a Website, <a href="http://www.saveourshellfish.com/SaveOurShellfish.com/Save_Our_Shellfish.com.html" target="_blank">SaveOurShellfish.com</a>, which is full of populist fervor, arguing that the feds “are illegally denying Californians their rights to shellfish cultivation in Drake’s [<em>sic</em>] Estero” and urging people to “Join us in standing up for the People’s right to this remarkable food source!” </p>
<p><a href="http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/about_us" target="_blank">The company’s own Website</a> makes much of the Lunnys’ commitment to environmentally sound practices. Its mission statement reads, in part, “All of our growing, post harvest and delivery practices are built around sound and sustainable agricultural practices with ecological responsibility and a long-standing attitude of stewardship for the land and sea that we farm.” A number of local restaurants and farm bureaus have weighed in on the company’s side. The legendary <a href="http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/" target="_blank">Alice Waters</a> of Chez Panisse noted the importance of “a community of scores of local farmers and ranchers, such as the Lunnys, whose dedication to sustainable aquaculture and agriculture assures the restaurant a steady supply of fresh and pure ingredients.” </p>
<p>Meanwhile, critics of the Lunnys argue that they have not always lived up to their lofty claims. The <a href="http://www.indybay.org/newsitems/2012/11/08/18725316.php" target="_blank">California Coastal Commission charged the company</a> with “illegal coastal development, violation of harbor seal protection measures, and failure to control significant amounts of its plastic pollution.” Various environmental groups have arrayed themselves on the government’s side. Neal Desai of the National Parks Conservation Association said that the decision “affirms that our national parks will be safe from privatization schemes, and that special places like Drakes Estero will rise above attempts to hijack America&#8217;s wilderness.” <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/helen-grieco/drakes-bay-oyster-company_b_3387269.html" target="_blank">A Huffington Post story</a> noted that the Washington nonprofit providing the company with pro bono legal representation had ties to the arch-conservative Koch brothers and was a front for the nationwide effort to open public lands to private exploitation.</p>
<p>It is impossible for an outsider like me to know what to make of all this; the controversy quickly becomes a morass of he said, she said charges and countercharges. Without knowing the details of the situation or the principals involved it is impossible to tell where the objective truth lies, if there is such a thing—which is, I grant you, a pretty big if. It seems, however, that each side has come to believe the worst about the other.</p>
<p>When I was a kid growing up in <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-YaWE0zu-c" target="_blank">Mill Valley</a>, Marin County was a byword for a laid-back lifestyle. Beads, patchouli, incense, peacock feathers, and—I admit it—large quantities of high-quality dope were part of the equation, as was one of the highest per-capita incomes in the country, and while it has always been easy to make fun of “Mellow Marin” (see Cyra McFadden’s <em><a href="http://www.pacificsun.com/marin_a_and_e/book_reviews/article_3f9b2c1e-65b4-11e2-9dd9-001a4bcf6878.html" target="_blank">The Serial: A Year in the Life of Marin County</a>,</em> for example), many people here seem genuinely committed to living in gentle harmony with each other and with Mother Nature.</p>
<p><a href="http://mitpress.mit.edu/authors/mark-dowie" target="_blank">Mark Dowie</a> is an environmental journalist who lives on the western shore of Tomales Bay. In the latest issue of the <em><a href="http://www.westmarinreview.org/" target="_blank">West Marin Review</a>,</em> he writes: “I remain an environmentalist. I believe we all are at heart. But I’m a hybrid, a fence-sitter, observed with caution by ranchers and Greens alike. I’ve lost a few friends on both sides of that fence.”</p>
<p>He adds, “The science of land stewardship is still unfolding and it’s hard to know what’s right. But it seems clear that one right thing is communication. Close, patient, and honest dialogue between ranchers and enviros will make great strides toward right-stewardship and toward consensus in the land disputes that plague the West. Those conversations are often best had around kitchen tables.”</p>
<p>Given the apparent intransigence, suspicion, and bitterness on both sides, the opponents in this controversy aren’t close to sitting down at the kitchen table together; hell, they’re not even in the same building, figuratively. (Literally, it’s a different story: a block from the house we rented is a 114-year-old former livery stable with one of those blue-and-white “Save Our Drakes Bay Oyster Farm” signs on the wall facing Third Street, and in that building is the office of the <a href="http://eacmarin.org/" target="_blank">Environmental Action Committee of West Marin</a>, which supports the decision to close the company down.)</p>
<p>Perhaps I’m being childish, but I can’t help wishing, with Dowie, that the locavores and the environmentalists could find common ground. This is a special and beautiful place, and it shouldn’t be that hard to agree on the need to keep it that way. But right now “Mellow Marin” seems a little less mellow, a little more like the rest of the world, and that’s a shame.</p>
<p><iframe class="aligncenter" width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/c5limzqHtGk?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<p><strong>What we’re reading<br />
Heather:</strong> Andrea Barrett, <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Servants-Map-Stories-Andrea-Barrett/dp/0393323579" target="_blank">Servants of the Map</a></em><br />
<strong>Martin:</strong> Edmund de Waal, <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Hare-Amber-Eyes-Inheritance/dp/0312569378" target="_blank">The Hare with Amber Eyes: A Hidden Inheritance</a></em></p>
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		<title>This and not that</title>
		<link>http://madronoranch.com/?p=3161</link>
		<comments>http://madronoranch.com/?p=3161#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Sep 2013 14:29:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Heather]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[More]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Buddhism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Christianity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Judaism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marin County]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nicene Creed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Point Reyes National Seashore]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Seton Cove]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[W. B. Yeats]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Last Sunday we attended a dharma teaching at Green Gulch Farm, on the western flanks of Mount Tamalpais, above Muir Beach. It was the kind of morning for which this part of California is famous: foggy and cool with sudden &#8230; <a href="http://madronoranch.com/?p=3161">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://www.roundtable.kemeticrecon.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Path.jpg" width="640" height="427" class="aligncenter" alt="Multiple paths" class /></p>
<p>Last Sunday we attended a dharma teaching at <a href="http://www.sfzc.org/ggf/" target="_blank">Green Gulch Farm</a>, on the western flanks of Mount Tamalpais, above Muir Beach. It was the kind of morning for which this part of California is famous: foggy and cool with sudden glittering glimpses of ocean or mountain that as quickly disappear back into the magician’s hand. After scurrying down the eucalyptus-buttressed driveway, we arrived at the temple late and at the wrong door. The temple was packed and listening to the robed priest read a children’s story to perhaps twenty well-behaved but wiggly children. Once the children were sent off to their own separate programing, the priest began his teaching in earnest, an hour-long disquisition on the relationship between labor (it was Labor Day weekend, after all) and Zen practice. He read two poems by <a href="http://www.poets.org/poet.php/prmPID/117" target="_blank">W. B. Yeats</a>, one by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Kavanagh" target="_blank">Patrick Kavanagh</a>, and referenced Shakespeare and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northrop_Frye" target="_blank">Northrop Frye</a>. I would bet that his radio is usually set on the local NPR station, and that he was looking forward, as I was, to reading the Sunday <em>New York Times</em> that afternoon.</p>
<p>When Martin and I got to the <em>Times</em>-reading phase of our own Sunday liturgy, I read a beautiful essay in the book review entitled “<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/01/books/review/articles-of-faith.html?pagewanted=all&#038;_r=0" target="_blank">Articles of Faith</a>” by Dara Horn, in which she muses on the easy confluence of contemporary Jewish fiction, even if it’s overtly non-religious, with ancient questions of faith. She contrasts this Jewish feast with the slim pickings on the post-Christian literary table: “Whither the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flannery_O%27Connor" target="_blank">Flannery O’Connor</a>s of yesteryear? <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marilynne_Robinson" target="_blank">Marilynne Robinson</a> can’t do this all by herself!” Because Judaism is a faith based on the concept of preserving memory, she asserts a peculiar affinity between Judaism and fiction-writing, “a mystical and irrational belief in a type of memory no neurologist would recognize, a phenomenon both uncanny and eternal,” a conviction that “time can be stopped, that somewhere, whether on our notebooks&#8230; or our spirits, everything is perfectly preserved and recorded, ready to return to life.” The essay ends with a call to listen to and create the stories that give a deep anchorage in history and a shapely hope to our personal and communal lives, even as the anchorage has made clear the murderous powers in which we swim. </p>
<p>All right, I thought, I guess I’m Buddhist <em>and</em> Jewish today. Does that mean I’m not a Christian? Oh, dear. And on a Sunday. </p>
<p>Being in California, particularly in <a href="http://www.pointreyes.org/pointreyes-marin-county.html" target="_blank">Point Reyes Station</a>, leaves me a little disoriented, especially since I come from <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/35/Texas_flag_map.svg/615px-Texas_flag_map.svg.png" target="_blank">a state that has ignored virtually every vote I’ve cast in the past twenty years</a>.  Martin and I are in like-minded company here: virtually every voice loudly proclaims with gusto the gospel of sustainable and local. We’ve driven north to Bodega Bay and south to Mill Valley and in fifty miles passed not one fast-food joint. Cattle are vital to the local economy and yet are grazed and raised humanely on federal lands. Signs supporting the <a href="http://www.malt.org/" target="_blank">Marin Agricultural Land Trust</a>—which protects about half of Marin County’s agricultural land from development—appear in almost every eatery with monotonous, almost sinister, regularity: could you end up in Tomales Bay wearing sustainably produced, free-trade cement shoes if you try to run a restaurant without supporting MALT?</p>
<p>Could I as easily be a Buddhist or a Jew as a Christian? A northern Californian as a Texan? The answer is probably yes, but I’m not. At some point in asserting an identity, in describing your part in the created order—something most Americans and maybe most post-Enlightenment people feel compelled to do—some sifting is necessary: <em>this</em> and not <em>that.</em> So I’m wondering why or how I’m a Christian. (Figuring out why or how I’m a Texan is probably too complicated an issue to tackle here.) The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicene_Creed" target="_blank">Nicene Creed</a> seems as good a place to start as any. It’s quite possible that the mere mention of those words—Nicene Creed—will start the sifting process in some readers: here’s my stop! It certainly would have stopped me twenty years ago.</p>
<p>I used to hate the creed, and I hated it even before I started going to church. How could you not hate something that required you to believe a dozen impossible things before breakfast? And not just impossible but downright unethical and sometimes just plain silly? The bit about the Spirit proceeding from the Father and the Son always makes me think about opening a <a href="http://www.brasscompass.com/13inTelescopeCh.jpg" target="_blank">collapsible telescope</a>. When we first started going to church, not so many years ago, saying the creed could ruin the whole service for me by starting an avalanche of arguments in my head that must have been audible at least to the people sitting next to me.</p>
<p>After years of saying and hating it, I began to say it with a few grudging assents. I was eventually surprised that immediately after the agitating “Father Almighty,” God’s next attribute was surprisingly democratic: maker. I’ve known lots of makers: hat-makers, bread-makers, policy-makers, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xLUEMj6cwA" target="_blank">cheese-makers</a> (this is the home of <a href="http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/" target="_blank">Cowgirl Creamery</a>, after all), and homemakers. Okay, I could say “maker.” I came to appreciate that creation included things both seen and unseen. Whether I believed it or not, I loved the effect of the introduction to Jesus: “eternally begotten of the Father, God from God, Light from Light, true God from true God, begotten not made, of one being with the Father.” I didn’t know what it meant (still don’t), but it was like entering a dense fog with a deep gong sounding, and it was followed by the bright iambic rhythm of “through him all things were made.” Okay. I could say that.</p>
<p>I can now say almost all of the creed, even the <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7c/Cima_da_Conegliano,_God_the_Father.jpg/300px-Cima_da_Conegliano,_God_the_Father.jpg" target="_blank">Father Almighty</a> part. I’ve had a father. I’m married to a father. I’m the mother of someone I hope will be a father some day. I know a lot of fathers and with all my heart I believe—<em>credo</em>—in the power and tenderness and explosive energy that seems to be bundled with fatherhood and that is, at least in a post-Jungian world, no longer the exclusive domain of men. I can also say what kind of fatherhood I don’t believe in, to which I emphatically do not give my heart. Nor do I imagine that calling God “Father” can possibly limit what I understand God to be, what the prophets and saints imagined and imagine and will imagine God to be. If in a moment of Christmas amazement I address the infant Jesus as “Sweet Potato,” as I have addressed each of my children, I don’t really expect a creedal formula to arise, but I glimpse the power that binds God and creation. I can say that with all my heart.</p>
<p>It’s taken some time to sift through these things, to say <em>this</em> and not <em>that.</em> I remember a discussion at the <a href="http://www.setoncove.net/" target="_blank">Seton Cove</a> in Austin when Patty Speier, the director, listened to a bunch of us talk about which tenets of the creed we thought we could toss out while still calling ourselves Christian. (One older woman in the group, Roman Catholic from long before her birth, listened to our passionate discussion with quiet amusement.) God the Father, of course, was thrown out immediately. Only son—on the trash heap. (No one had any objection to sitting in the reverberant fog of God from God, Light from Light, etc.) Virgin birth—are you kidding? Finally Patty asked us what we couldn’t throw out and stunned us into silence. I eventually answered that question by writing my own creed, which I have to change nearly every time I go back to it. I don’t actually say it, but it helps guide my steps when I pick my way across the capital-C Creed, showing me where to balance—here and not there—on the rocks that are tippy. It goes something like this:</p>
<blockquote><p>I believe in one living God,<br />
author, judge, faithful lover,<br />
unseen, usually unheard.</p>
<p>I believe in Jesus Christ, the flowering vine,<br />
who was born in danger of Mary<br />
and unexpectedly loved by Joseph;<br />
who walked in beauty through a world<br />
rent by greed and grief;<br />
who healed and mourned, who taught and raged;<br />
who sang the old songs and spoke nonsense, sometimes;<br />
who called hidden truths to the surface;<br />
who forced a crisis in those who met him.<br />
He died in agony—deserted, betrayed, true.<br />
He rose and bloomed somehow, beckoning<br />
everyone in time and space to join him.<br />
And most of all I believe in the Spirit, who binds<br />
with luminous swaddling the Creator, the Beckoner,<br />
and all that is, has been, will be.</p>
<p>I believe they are the source of all just anger, all quiet courage,<br />
all patient love, all improbable forgiveness.<br />
I believe this mostly at night, in poems and music,<br />
and when I don’t think too hard.<br />
I believe this whenever friends and strangers gather for a meal.<br />
I believe this as I can, which is sometimes not at all,<br />
but I know I must believe or wither.</p></blockquote>
<p>My identity as a Christian (and perhaps as a Texan) has taken—and continues to take—a series of unexpected turns. Many of the paths on which I have found myself peter out, but some of them allow me to move ahead. Since Martin and I are in this beautiful place to hike, I can’t help but imagine this process as walking in a wild place with a map that is useful in a general sort of way—you know what direction you’re headed in, where significant landmarks are in relation to each other—but less helpful when it comes to the specifics of navigation. The trail becomes fainter the farther you go, more like a deer trail, and suddenly you find yourself walking in high shrubs or reeds or thick understory. Several paths, equally well trodden, present themselves to you. You take one, puffing through the scratchy gorse, wishing you’d worn long pants, and swatting at mosquitoes. The trail becomes available only to those walkers with four feet. You swear and head back, hoping you’re actually on the main trail. You are, but it divides again, and all of a sudden the trail is nothing but thick impassable mud. You hear running water and know from the map that the trail is supposed to be near a creek. So you take off through the chaparral or whatever this damn stuff is and tear your shorts on a branch in an annoyingly conspicuous place. You feel <em>sure</em> that a trail will appear somewhere if you just get a little higher up. And all of a sudden, your partner now muttering unattractive observations about your sense of direction, you glimpse the quiet shining lake. You’re still not sure where the trail is, but the lake is right there.</p>
<p><iframe width="420" height="315" class="aligncenter" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/XM41tBA-Gc0?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<p><strong>What We’re Reading<br />
Heather:</strong> Dave Eggers, <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Hologram-King-Novel-Vintage/dp/0307947513" target="_blank">A Hologram for the King</a></em><br />
<strong>Martin:</strong> Lewis Hyde, <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Common-Air-Revolution-Art-Ownership/dp/0374532796/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&#038;ie=UTF8&#038;qid=1378487421&#038;sr=1-2&#038;keywords=lewis+hyde+common+as+air" target="_blank">Common as Air: Revolution, Art, and Ownership</a></em></p>
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		<title>Most memorable meals, take four: oysters and earthquakes</title>
		<link>http://madronoranch.com/?p=2844</link>
		<comments>http://madronoranch.com/?p=2844#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Sep 2012 12:57:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Afield: A Chef's Guide to Preparing and Cooking Wild Game and Fish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cowgirl Creamery]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dai Due]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hog Island Oyster Co.]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marin County]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oysters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Point Reyes National Seashore]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[San Andreas Fault]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tomales Bay]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[As some of you know, Heather and I have spent the last two weeks in a rented cottage in Point Reyes Station, about an hour north of San Francisco. This is, I think, the longest vacation the two of us &#8230; <a href="http://madronoranch.com/?p=2844">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/hogislandone.jpg"><img src="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/hogislandone-300x225.jpg" alt="Hog Island Oyster Co., Marshall" title="Hog Island Oyster Co., Marshall" width="300" height="225" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2847" /></a></p>
<p>As some of you know, Heather and I have spent the last two weeks in a rented cottage in <a href="http://www.pointreyes.org/pointreyes_marin_county.html" target="_blank">Point Reyes Station</a>, about an hour north of San Francisco. This is, I think, the longest vacation the two of us have taken together since our honeymoon, and it’s been a little unsettling to be away from home for such a stretch. But the beauty of western Marin County—the wild coastline of <a href="http://www.nps.gov/pore/index.htm" target="_blank">Point Reyes National Seashore</a>, the placid expanse of Tomales Bay, the rolling hills, the towering eucalyptus and Monterey cypress trees—is utterly overwhelming, and we have found ourselves entranced. </p>
<p>It is impossible, however, to be in this part of the world and not have a sense, no matter how deeply buried in the unconscious, of impermanence. Tomales Bay, after all, is a visible marker of the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/pore/naturescience/faults.htm" target="_blank">San Andreas Fault</a>, and the Next Big One could hit at any time. It’s always there, that nagging knowledge that this landscape, this place, is every bit as temporary as we are; eat, drink, and be merry, for tomorrow we may be at the bottom of the ocean, or buried under rubble. I think that sublimated dread adds a poignant savor to all aspects of life, including the food, for what is more temporary than a meal? Growing and harvesting and preparing the animals and plants we eat can take years; and yet, once they appear on our plates, they are gone in a matter of minutes.</p>
<p>And make no mistake: for foodies, the Bay Area, and Marin County in particular, is truly the Promised Land. This is a region ferociously dedicated to the idea of local, sustainable, organic food; in fact, we have concluded that any area restaurant that does not display a “<a href="http://marinorganic.org/" target="_blank">Marin Organic</a>” sign is probably doomed to failure. The dairy farms in West Marin are legendary; the fruits and vegetables are astonishingly various and beautiful (we saw gorgeous tomatoes and carrots, squash and beets, all on offer <em>at the same time</em> at the <a href="http://www.marinorganic.org/p_reyes.php" target="_blank">Point Reyes Farmers Market</a>); and the bread—well, this is the homeland of San Francisco sourdough, after all. ’Nuff said. </p>
<p>Seafood, too, is available in mind-boggling abundance. I have probably eaten more raw oysters in the last two weeks than I had in my entire previous life: at <a href="http://ferryplazaseafood.com/" target="_blank">Ferry Plaza Seafood</a> in the San Francisco Ferry Building; at the <a href="http://www.pointreyesseashore.com/farmhouse_restaurant.htm" target="_blank">Farm House Restaurant</a> in Olema, a couple of miles down Highway 1; at the <a href="http://stationhousecafe.com/" target="_blank">Station House Café</a>, in Point Reyes Station; at <a href="http://www.saltwateroysterdepot.com/about-2/" target="_blank">Saltwater</a>, on the west shore of Tomales Bay in Inverness. And we haven’t even been to what is probably my favorite restaurant in the whole world, <a href="http://www.mcsweeneys.net/images/luckypeach/sample1.jpg" target="_blank">Swan Oyster Depot</a> in San Francisco.</p>
<p>But the apotheosis of oysters is the legendary <a href="http://hogislandoysters.com/" target="_blank">Hog Island Oyster Co.</a> in Marshall, about ten miles up Highway 1 on the eastern shore of Tomales Bay. Last week, coincidentally, our pal Jesse Griffiths of Austin’s <a href="http://daidueaustin.net/" target="_blank">Dai Due Butcher Shop and Supper Club</a> was in the Bay Area, staying with friends in Oakland. Jesse has just published his first book, a beautiful volume called <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1599621142" target="_blank">Afield: A Chef’s Guide to Preparing and Cooking Wild Game and Fish</a>,</em> chock-full of charming stories, delicious recipes, step-by-step instructions, and stunning photographs (including some of Madroño Ranch!) by <a href="http://www.jodyhorton.com/" target="_blank">Jody Horton</a>, and last Tuesday made an in-store appearance (which we attended, of course) at the <a href="http://tylerflorence.com/shop/" target="_blank">Tyler Florence Shop</a> in Mill Valley to promote the book.</p>
<p>Jesse had last Friday free, and agreed to drive up for lunch with us. We agreed to meet at <a href="http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/" target="_blank">Cowgirl Creamery</a> in Point Reyes Station to load up on picnic supplies and then head up to Hog Island.</p>
<p>At Cowgirl, of course, Jesse immediately recognized the young woman behind the counter as a former co-worker at Austin’s <a href="http://www.austinvespaio.com/vespaio/vespaio.html" target="_blank">Vespaio</a> (“she was always into cheese,” he recalled, which must be an understatement). We picked up a dark, crusty <a href="http://ahungrygirl.blogspot.com/2009/11/notes-from-baking-trail.html" target="_blank">Brickmaiden</a> baguette, a round of Cowgirl’s new seasonal <a href="https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CHIMNEY" target="_blank">Chimney Rock</a> cheese, a <em>salame al tartufo</em> from <a href="http://www.creminelli.com/" target="_blank">Creminelli</a>, a bottle of white wine, and an Earl Grey panna cotta for Heather and hit the road for Marshall.</p>
<p><a href="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/hogislandtwo.jpg"><img src="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/hogislandtwo-300x225.jpg" alt="Tomales Bay from Hog Island Oyster Co." title="Tomales Bay from Hog Island Oyster Co." width="300" height="225" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2849" /></a></p>
<p>At Hog Island you can order your fresh shellfish, claim a picnic table overlooking Tomales Bay, and smugly ponder those unfortunate souls who have to live anywhere else in the world. Because Heather wasn’t really into the whole raw oyster thing, we ordered only a couple of dozen—one each of Kumamotos and extra-small sweetwaters—and claimed one end of a picnic table out back. (The friendly couple at the other end of the table looked enviously at our wine and bread and cheese and complimented us on our foresight.) It was a typical West Marin day; the morning had been foggy, but now the sun was out, the temperature was in the upper 70s, and a gentle breeze was blowing in off the sparkling light blue bay.</p>
<p>The oysters appeared atop a bed of rock salt on a plastic tray, with an oyster knife attached by a chain and a rubber glove for shucking purposes. Jesse took charge of the shucking, I poured the wine (we appropriated three styrofoam cups from the bar) and sliced the salame and cheese (using Jesse’s own oyster knife; he never leaves home without one), and we sat in the sun for an hour or so, elbows propped on the rough wood of the picnic table, eating and drinking and dropping empty oyster shells into the wire basket at our feet—not, perhaps, the most elegant meal we’ve ever consumed, but surely one of the most enjoyable. All around us people busily slurped their own shellfish, drank beer, grilled eggplant and chicken, and patted their dogs.</p>
<p><a href="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/hogislandthree.jpg"><img src="http://madronoranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/hogislandthree-300x225.jpg" alt="Jesse Griffiths at Hog Island Oyster Co." title="Jesse Griffiths at Hog Island Oyster Co." width="300" height="225" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-2851" /></a></p>
<p>Raw oysters are, I grant you, an acquired taste. Some people never get the hang of it—the trick is to open the throat and let the little bugger just slide on down—but these were delicious. We ate them unadorned, with no mignonette or barbecue sauce or horseradish or Tabasco, and they were perfect: briny, sweet, smooth, plump. The wine was cool and crisp, the bread perfect (dark crust, with a firm hand), the cheese (from Jersey cow milk, washed in wine, and covered with dried organic mushrooms, savory, and black pepper) was soft and delicious, the conversation far ranging and lively, and the setting, of course, almost impossibly beautiful. </p>
<p>For me, at least, the combination of being back in the part of the world in which I grew up, with my beloved Heather and our good friend Jesse, felt like a stitching together of my life. It was integrative, if I may lapse into Marinspeak, in the best way, even though I knew it couldn’t last. Our two weeks out here have been utterly amazing, but on Sunday we fly back to Austin, back to our real lives, and it will be good to be home again. These last few months have brought more than their share of challenges, and more challenges doubtless lie ahead. But on this day, sitting in the sun sharing a delicious meal with dear companions, in this most beautiful of settings, was enough. More than enough.</p>
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<p><strong>What we’re reading<br />
Heather:</strong> Mary Roach (ed.), <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Best-American-Science-Nature-Writing/dp/0547350635/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&#038;ie=UTF8&#038;qid=1348846774&#038;sr=1-1&#038;keywords=best+science+and+nature+writing+2011" target="_blank">The Best American Science and Nature Writing 2011</a></em><br />
<strong>Martin:</strong> Michael Chabon, <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Telegraph-Avenue-Novel-Michael-Chabon/dp/0061493341" target="_blank">Telegraph Avenue</a></em></p>
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		<title>There and back again: a geobiography</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jul 2010 17:19:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Place]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Annie Dillard]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bay Area]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ellen Davis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gemini Ink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[geobiography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lewis Hyde]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marin County]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[We recently led a seminar on Madroño Ranch as part of the annual Summer Literary Festival at Gemini Ink, a writing center in San Antonio. The theme of this year’s festival was “What Would Nature Do?” and in our seminar &#8230; <a href="http://madronoranch.com/?p=328">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
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<p><em>We recently led a seminar on Madroño Ranch as part of the annual Summer Literary Festival at <a href="http://geminiink.org/" target="_blank">Gemini Ink</a>, a writing center in San Antonio. The theme of this year’s festival was “What Would Nature Do?” and in our seminar we read and discussed works by Wendell Berry, <a href="http://www.anniedillard.com/" target="_blank">Annie Dillard</a>, Michael Pollan, Ellen Davis, Lewis Hyde, and Mary Oliver. We also asked the participants to write a brief “geobiography” (as “A Native Hill” is described in the collection </em><a href="http://www.indiebound.org/book/9781593760076" target="_blank">The Art of the Commonplace: The Agrarian Essays of Wendell Berry</a><em>), a statement of how they consider themselves rooted in a particular place. Here’s a slightly modified version of what I wrote:</em></p>
<p>I am a native of the Bay Area, a place that everyone thinks is <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b3/Golden_Gate_SF_night_CA_USA.jpg" target="_blank">among the most beautiful in the world</a>. I was born in San Francisco and grew up in Marin County, just to the north of the city across the <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/GG-bridge-12-2006.jpg" target="_blank">Golden Gate Bridge</a>; I lived amid the winding hillside lanes and towering <a href="http://www.dailydanny.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/mill-valley-trees.jpg" target="_blank">redwood</a> and <a href="http://images.travelpod.com/users/1414kath/1.1219114980.eucalyptus-trees-2.jpg" target="_blank">eucalyptus</a> trees of <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/3/30/PostcardMillValleyCAwithMountTamalpaisCirca1910.jpg" target="_blank">Mill Valley, beneath Mount Tamalpais</a>, until I was eighteen, when I went off to college in Massachusetts. There I met the woman I would marry, a native Texan, as I recounted in <a href="http://madronoranch.com/?p=317">an earlier post</a>; she had a job lined up in San Antonio after graduation, I followed her there, and I never lived in California again.</p>
<p>Why did I so thoughtlessly, even eagerly, put California behind me when I left home? In part, I realize in retrospect, I was hoping to escape some not particularly unusual or interesting adolescent angst and family tensions, and to redefine myself as a brighter, happier person in a new setting, among strangers. (I say nothing of the futility of such an effort; I was young and foolish.) Massachusetts, and then Texas, seemed like blessed opportunities, and I clutched at them desperately.</p>
<p>Only… almost despite myself, I continued to count as my closest friends two men I had known almost since birth. Brad and I met in kindergarten; Hans came a few years later. The three of us went all the way through elementary and high school together, and all three of us headed east to college, Brad to Harvard and Hans to Yale. (Both, I hear, pretty good schools.)</p>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_i36agCMMxBU/TDn4CRY-OTI/AAAAAAAAAPw/TqPY-QpZQcQ/s1600/hansbabbobradcropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_i36agCMMxBU/TDn4CRY-OTI/AAAAAAAAAPw/TqPY-QpZQcQ/s320/hansbabbobradcropped.jpg" /></a></div>
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<p>After college, I ended up in Texas, while Brad and Hans returned to California, to Los Angeles and San Francisco respectively. Last year we all turned fifty, and Brad decided we should celebrate the milestone together. So, after much back-and-forthing (all three of us are married with children, with all the scheduling complications that implies), we arranged to meet in San Francisco in March and spend a day in Marin hiking along the <a href="http://www.californiacoastaltrail.info/cms/pages/main/index.html" target="_blank">California Coastal Trail</a>, six miles from Tennessee Valley to Muir Beach and back again. It was a beautiful day, we had a wonderful time, and we agreed to make this little reunion an annual event. This year, again, we gathered in March and spent the day hiking in Marin, this time at Pierce Point Ranch on the northern end of <a href="http://www.nps.gov/pore/" target="_blank">Point Reyes National Seashore</a>. Next year we may meet in L.A., in deference to Brad; the year after that, perhaps we’ll meet in Texas.</p>
<p>One of the wonderful gifts this time with Brad and Hans has given me is the opportunity to reconsider my relationship to California. My father was something of an outdoorsman, and when I was a child we went camping and hiking in Marin County, in <a href="http://www.packerlakelodge.com/images/Packer%20Lake.jpg" target="_blank">the Sierras</a>, and even up the coast to Oregon and Washington. For various reasons, I never really enjoyed these trips as much as I should have—or so I thought. But hiking to <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bd/Muir_Beach_from_Green_Gulch_Farm.jpg" target="_blank">Muir Beach</a> and at <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2b/Point_Reyes_National_Seashore_headlands_from_Chimney_Rock.jpg" target="_blank">Point Reyes</a> with Brad and Hans forced me to confront an unexpected and long-suppressed truth: I loved this land, and felt comfortable in it in a way I still don’t in Texas, even though Texas is now home. I gloried in half-remembered vistas, in the way the glittering ocean and the crepuscular redwood forests and the rolling dairy farms butted up against each other; in the cypress and eucalyptus and madrone and laurel and manzanita, and in the blooming flowers whose names I’d never learned; in the cool, salty air; in the <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3f/San_francisco_in_fog_with_rays.jpg" target="_blank">fog banks drifting in over the Pacific</a>.</p>
<p>I felt as if a long-shut door in my head had been wrenched open again, and I could look out, for the first time in years, onto the bright green hills of a place I’d forgotten, or almost forgotten—a place I knew at once, with an almost literally breathtaking shock of recognition. I now realize that, having grown up amid such gentle but dramatic beauty (the suggestive, if erroneous, local legend has it that <a href="http://www.marinmagazine.com/images/cache/66aa46495eae0d8766eeef2a6c17ece9.jpeg" target="_blank">Tamalpais</a> means “Sleeping Lady”), I came to believe that the world is an essentially beneficent place, and that the land is an unfailing source of pleasure and comfort. (I might have reached a different set of conclusions had I grown up in, say, <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6d/Orla.JPG" target="_blank">Orla, Texas</a>, or <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a0/Welcome_to_Barrow%2C_Alaska.jpg" target="_blank">Barrow, Alaska</a>.)</p>
<p>Mostly, however, I realize how much I took for granted, and how unbelievably lucky I was (and am). Over the years I’ve wasted a lot of time and energy in attempting to deny or at least rewrite my past, but now I feel as though I’ve been given a second chance to connect, to learn this land—not as the place I live, perhaps, but as the place I’m from, the place that formed me.</p>
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<p><strong>What we’re reading<br />
Heather:</strong> Kathryn Stockett, <em><a href="http://www.kathrynstockett.com/stockett-synopsis.htm" target="_blank">The Help</a></em><br />
<strong>Martin:</strong> Dan O’Brien, <em><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=PeWosucOVokC&amp;pg=PT3&amp;lpg=PT3&amp;dq=dan+o'brien+buffalo+for+the+broken+heart&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=60p-SsH9a4&amp;sig=JTH0wZndhTfxXWzrR-8dyufxfIc&amp;hl=en&amp;ei=ZzU7TJeJGMP68Aak8KWmBg&amp;sa=X&amp;oi=book_result&amp;ct=result&amp;resnum=5&amp;ved=0CCgQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false" target="_blank">Buffalo for the Broken Heart: Restoring Life to a Black Hills Ranch</a></em></p>
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